November 2001

Mexicos roads are renowned for being dangerous at night due to animals, drunk drivers and big drops but daytime can be interesting too as we rounded a corner to find a lorry across the road with a car rammed up its rear. We come across crashes and broken down vehicles almost every day but we never seem to have the camera ready. Arriving safely in Tuxtla, we found it to be a friendly place, everybody says hello as we walk down the streets and are helpful to directionally challenged travellers. We wanted to visit the nearby 1000 metre deep Sumadero Canyon but it was dark when we arrived. Fortunately the security guys let us camp right beside the entrance gates, probably so they could check out the strange foreigners and their camping gadgets.

Sumadero was impressive and there was no need for a gruelling walk to the bottom with full packs, unlike Colca Canyon in Peru last year. When the spanish conquered Mexico, the local Indian warriors were unable to face capture and threw themselves into the canyon to their deaths. We thought better of doing the same and drove off to Chiapa del Corzo where we found the cheapest internet place so far at 5 pesos (30 pence) an hour. Also cheap was purified water which we buy in 19 litre containers to fill up our four 20 litre jerry cans, water bags and some plastic bottles we have lying around in the back of the landy. Next stop is San Cristobal de las Casas.

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